Gel-lacquer has long won the status of an indispensable attribute of modern fashionistas, thanks to its amazing properties. It not only emphasises the neatness and grooming of nails, but is also a real salvation for those who appreciate the beauty and durability of manicure. Its popularity among masters and clients of manicure salons is quite justified: gel-lacquer guarantees the perfect look of nails for a long time, while not requiring constant care. It is convenient, stylish and incredibly beautiful.

The first nail varnish first appeared in ancient China. It was made of beeswax, gelatin, vegetable dyes and gummiarabic, a hard, transparent resin made from the solidified sap of acacia trees. The Chinese would wet their nails with this mixture for several hours and leave them to dry. Depending on the composition of the ingredients, the colours ranged from pink to red.

The Ming dynasty (1368-1644) was known for extremely long nails. Sometimes the nails were protected by gold overlays encrusted with pearls. Specially assigned servants made sure that members of the imperial family did not accidentally break or damage their nails.

In ancient times, nail art was an expression of the privileges of the upper classes, but since the 19th century it has been allowed for everyone and has been seen as part of fashion.

The spread of orange sticks is attributed to Sitts' niece, who, starting in 1892, produced her own line of nail care products aimed at women of different social status. Finally, these products from Europe made their way to American beauty salons.

In 1907 the first liquid nail varnish appeared, at first it was transparent. However, lacquers came on the market en masse in the 1920s. The use of coloured pigments was borrowed by lacquer manufacturers from the automotive industry. Soon after, varnish of different colours was produced.

In 1925, the moon manicure became fashionable and was seen everywhere. Shades of red and pink were applied to the nail plate in the shape of a semicircle, avoiding the area near the cuticle.


The history of manicures goes back several decades, but the real breakthrough in it happened relatively recently. The year 2010 was marked by an innovative invention patented by a professional American brand - the appearance of shellac. In fact, it was a hybrid of the usual for beauties colour coating, but thanks to innovative components and special technology of application, shellac held times longer, which caused a well-deserved delight in every girl. Nowadays we can often hear the use of the word "shellac", "shellac" or even "shilak" in relation to gel nail varnish, implying a long-term coating. Also, people often use the words gel polish and shellac as synonyms. What is the difference and is there really a difference?

The name "gel-lacquer" speaks for itself - it is a hybrid of modelling ultra-strong gel, used for extensions, and classic pigmented lacquer, designed to effectively decorate our nails. Gel-lacquer is a special plastic gel, which is applied to the nail plates and due to polymerisation turns into an ultra-strong coating, not subject to erasure and various damages for more than 3 weeks.


Shellac is not just a brand of gel varnish, but a generic name, similar to how "Pampers" has become a designation for any nappy. Just as Coca-Cola and Pepsi are often considered interchangeable beverages, Shellac gel polish and its counterparts share similar properties: both react to UV light and stay on the nails for about two weeks. Shellac earned its popularity as the first mass-produced product of its kind to require the use of a special drying lamp. Over time, the name of this brand has become a common term used to describe all types of gel polish.

Film former is a substance with built-in -C=C- type bonds, which under the influence of UV radiation forms a dense solid film on the working surface. The presence of -C=C- bonds in the film former determines the basic properties of the coating, such as resistance to abrasion, chemical influences, elasticity, hardness, bending and tensile strength.

Photoinitiator is a compound with the ability to absorb UV radiation with subsequent transition to an excited state and intramolecular decomposition, resulting in the release of reactive particles - free radicals. The wavelength required for the reaction and, consequently, the maximum absorption of UV radiation depends on the chemical composition of the photoinitiator. In gel-lacquers, photoinitiators are used that activate radical polymerisation by intramolecular bond cleavage. As a rule, these are benzoin esters, benzylketals, α-aminoalkylphenones, hydroxyalkylphenones and a group of phosphinoxides. The decomposition of benzoin and its derivatives leads to the formation of free radicals reacting with double -C=C- bonds.

Active diluents are monomers, acrylic acid esters, most often methacrylates. They are used to maintain the desired consistency of gel-lacquers, provide the viscosity necessary for application to the working surface. They firmly adhere to the surface of the nail, which provides good durability of the decorative coating. In the process of curing are embedded in the polymer structure. The most commonly used acrylates for this purpose are: tripropylene glycol diacrylate (TPGDA), hexanediol diacrylate (HDDA), dipropylene glycol diacrylate (DPGDA) or trimethylolpropantriacrylate (TMPTA).


Pigment is an organic or inorganic substance that is used to colour gel varnish. Unlike colourants, pigments do not dissolve in gel varnish and do not interfere with UV absorption. However, some pigments can slow down the photopolymerisation of the coating.

Polymers - the basis of the varnish. From their quality directly depends on the durability of the coating. In fact, they are the same resins that form a super-strong glossy film.

TSF - a synthetic variety of polymer, which determines the degree of adhesion of the lacquer directly with the nail plate. It should not contain formaldehyde.

Solvents - carriers of all the ingredients of the lacquer. It is wrong to assume that the hardening of the coating is due to polymerisation. Simply during this process, some of the solvents evaporate, which leads to curing

Ethyl acetate is a type of chemically modified alcohol. Responsible for the speed of solidification.

Plasticisers - they give the lacquer strength and elasticity, which allows the lacquer not to chip even when the plates are bent.

Butyl acetate - one of the components responsible for the degree of fluidity of the coating. Thanks to its presence, the lacquer is evenly distributed over the entire surface of the nails and is easily layered.

Nitrocellulose - a very dangerous component because of its explosive, literally, features. It is she who provides a bright, shiny film, for which quality gel-lacquers are so famous.

Pigments - finely dispersed particles that give the lacquer a unique shade. On their quantity depends on the saturation of colour.

Mica - this component you will definitely meet, if you look closely at the composition of pearlescent lacquers. It is responsible for the glamorous shimmer.

Silicates - they prevent "settling" of pigments and control the consistency of lacquer.

If the correct application technology is observed, gel-lacquer lasts on the nails for up to 21 days. At the same time, the coating does not lose lustre, does not crack and does not fall off, does not require additional correction. Nails look absolutely natural and at the same time the natural plate is protected. However, sometimes even these latest achievements of high technology let us down. Instead of the stated 2-3 weeks of wear coating begins to crack or peel off in the first few days after application. 


Let's consider mistakes in the technology of applying gel varnish.

Application of base gel is one of the main components of the technology of work with gel varnishes. The base gel serves as a base for the gel varnish. It is responsible for creating a molecular bond between the natural keratin of the natural nail and the artificial gel material.

At the same time, the base gel protects the nail from penetration of colouring pigments of the gel varnish.

In the technology of applying gel varnish, it is important to ensure that the materials are applied to the nail plate very thin layer. This applies to the base gel. On the brush we take a small amount of base gel and rub it in, starting from the free edge. Also cover the end of the nail. After that we go over the whole nail plate with long movements from top to bottom. Make sure that the gel does not get on the skin, cuticle and side rollers. Then put the nail in a UV-lamp for 1 minute to polymerise the base gel (in LED-lamp - for 10 seconds).

After the base gel dries, remove the dispersion layer. This is done in order to ensure that the coloured gel varnish is evenly laid down, does not collect and does not spread to the side rollers.
 

1 step

Form the free edge of the nail. The free edge of the nail plate should be perfectly flat and absolutely clean from dust.

2 step

Remove the top keratin layer of the nail plate (gloss only).

3 step

Apply base. If the nail plate is very soft and weak after removal of the nail extensions, the gel varnish may start to chip already in the first days after the application procedure. To prevent this from happening, you can apply a primer to the weakened plate. This is necessary for tight adhesion of the base gel with the natural nail. Modern acid-free primers do not contain methacrylic acid - the application is safe for the natural nail. They are a priming agent. In order to avoid detachment, it is necessary to treat the top of the nail with primer as well.

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