Correction of gel nails: step-by-step instructions for quality work
Today, a neat and beautiful manicure is an important part of the image. Modern cosmetology offers numerous procedures for creating a perfect manicure. However, it is worth remembering that to keep it in perfect condition requires regular correction every 2-3 weeks. The complexity of this procedure can vary greatly depending on the material chosen.
What is nail correction?
Nail correction involves the application of modelling material to the overgrown part of the nail plate to maintain a neat manicure. During the procedure, nail shafts and cuticles are also cared for, and nails that are too long can be neatly trimmed or corrected by buffing. The final stage is the application of decorative designs to the nail surface.
The most important point is the exact observance of time intervals between corrections of artificial nails. Between them should be 2 - 3 weeks. This period is dictated by the growth rate of natural nails. As you know, they grow about 1 mm per week. If correction is made in time, there is no deformation of the material, artificial nails are stable, material and time costs of the procedure are minimal.
Masters of nail service usually have to correct and levelling the deficiencies of natural nails with the help of sealing, various types of manicure or the use of dermatocosmetics. However, the phrase "nail correction" implies, first of all, work with artificial nails. The fact is that after the build-up, the nail continues to grow. This leads to the fact that the area of the well gradually remains without artificial material - gel or acrylic, and the tip of the nail lengthens, because of which it can break.
After a month after the build-up, the overall appearance of the nails becomes unaesthetic, so artificial nails need regular correction. The procedure of correction of artificial nails is generally the same for gel and acrylic nails. It requires at least one hour of time.
But even if the timing of correction is exactly observed, sometimes there are problems with detachment of the material. This occurs more often in the area of the lateral sinuses. Detachment should not exceed 1 - 1.5 mm. But even in this case, you should think about whether the material used is suitable for the client and whether the master is doing everything correctly. If after 2 - 3 weeks the material comes off only in one out of ten people, the reasons should be sought in the client.
Types of correction of nail extensions
Salons offer several types of correction, each varying in cost. Here are the main ones:
- Minor correction. Restoration of the nail plate in case of minor damage (chips, scratches, etc.).
- Medium correction. Usually carried out 2-4 weeks after the nail extension procedure or the last correction.
- Complex correction. This type of correction is necessary in case of significant delamination, breakage or displacement of most of the nail plate.
The cost of correction is from 50% to 70% of the original nail extension price, because sometimes correction requires the same amount of work and time as the initial nail extension. The time required for the procedure depends on the experience of the master and varies from 1 to 2 hours.
The price also depends on the condition of the nail plate and the materials used. If possible, it is better to perform the procedure at home using more affordable means, as it will cost less.
How to correct gel nails
1. Treat the hands of the client and the craftsman.
2. Apply cuticle remover. After 2 - 3 minutes, when the product begins to act, push the pterygium from the surface of the natural nail plate with a special tool (medical steel spatula, disposable wooden stick).
3. Remove remnants of the product with a lint-free cloth. Use a 180 grit file to remove the length of the free edge and shape it as desired. File off 2/3 of the thickness of the material surface in the area of the stress zone and the free edge of the nail.
4. Remove the natural shine from the surface of the natural nail using a 400 grit abrasive buff. Do it carefully, with movements in the direction from the cuticle area to the free edge of the nail.
5. Treat the areas where the material has peeled away from the nail with a 240 grit abrasive file.
6. Pay particular attention to the area of the lateral sinuses.
7. Remove dust from filing with a special anti-static brush-broom.
8. Treat the natural nail plate with primer. This preparation does not contain acids and reliably connects the artificial material with the keratin of natural nails.
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9. Proceed directly to modelling.
The basic rules of successful nail modelling
✓ Не допускать попадания материала (шарик акрила или капля геля) на кожу в зоне кутикулы и боковых пазух. Это может стать причиной отслойки материала.
✓ Не наносить материала больше, чем необходимо. Это увеличит время опиливания и приведет к повышению себестоимости коррекции искусственных ногтей.
✓ Количество материала также должно соответствовать форме и длине искусственного ногтя.
✓ Правильный выбор кисти для моделирования очень важен. Для коррекции гелем используйте плоскую кисть. Для акрила – овальную. Ворс, применяемый в кистях, должен быть натуральным (чаще всего это соболь), правильно сформированным у основания и кончика кисти – она не должна оставаться той же формы, что и при покупке. Консистенцию акрилового шарика выбирайте в зависимости от температуры воздуха в помещении, в котором вы работаете. Чем выше температура, тем более жидким должен быть акрил.
✓ Не давите кистью очень сильно, так как гели очень пластичные и имеют эффект самовыравнивания.
✓ Не рекомендуется наносить скульптурный гель сразу на несколько ногтей, даже если он имеет достаточно густую консистенцию. Работайте конвейерным методом, одновременно с двумя руками клиента, по очереди просушивая материал в лампе. По окончании работы каждую руку поочередно следует поместить в лампу на две минуты. Это необходимо для завершения процесса полимеризации геля.
✓ Не давите кистью очень сильно, так как гели очень пластичные и имеют эффект самовыравнивания.
✓ Не рекомендуется наносить скульптурный гель сразу на несколько ногтей, даже если он имеет достаточно густую консистенцию. Работайте конвейерным методом, одновременно с двумя руками клиента, по очереди просушивая материал в лампе. По окончании работы каждую руку поочередно следует поместить в лампу на две минуты. Это необходимо для завершения процесса полимеризации геля.
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